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Saturday, November 30, 2013

DIY Children's Play Tables

You can make your own children's play table with minimum building skills and pre-cut lumber from your local home improvement store. Determine the desired size of the surface of your table and have the wood cut when you purchase the lumber. This DIY project then becomes a simple matter of assembling the parts. Does this Spark an idea?

Materials

    Consider the types of activities your children will be enjoying at their play table, as well as how many kids will be using the table at one time. You should then take the size of their playroom or bedroom into consideration before you decide how large the tabletop should be. Commercially available children's tables come in a range of sizes and shapes, but your hardware store may only cut a rectangle or a square for you. Have a sheet of two-inch-thick hardwood or MDF (medium density fiberboard) cut to the length and width of your tabletop.

    You can also purchase paint-grade wood, depending on the finish you plan to apply. Hardwood is better for staining, while MDF should be painted. Pick up some polyurethane for a protective topcoat, no matter which finish you select. You'll also need medium and light-grade sandpaper.

    For the table legs, you can purchase decorative legs at the home improvement store, but you may need to have them cut down to fit the desired height of your table. The choice is yours, but 24 inches is a common height that works well with children's chairs. Keep in mind that you will have two inches of tabletop to consider, so if the overall desired height is 24 inches, have the legs cut to 22 inches. You can attach the legs to the top with L brackets and wood screws, one for each leg. Add a brace beneath the tabletop every 16 inches--a two-inch square wood strip that runs perpendicular to the top will work. Attach it with three-inch wood screws. Iron-on wood veneer is simple to apply and works great to cover the open edges of the wood around the rim of the table.

Assembly

    The first step in creating your children's play table is to attach the iron-on veneer around the edges of the tabletop. Follow the manufacturer's instructions and you'll have the edges covered in no time. It's a good idea to sand all of your wood components before you assemble the table. You should also paint or stain all of the pieces at this time too. It's easier to when they are not attached to each other. Follow the directions on the finishing products that you select, and make sure to let everything dry completely before you begin assembling.

    To make the table, attach an L bracket to the top of each table leg, and then attach the legs to the underside of the tabletop, in the corners. While the tabletop is face down, attach the braces directly to the wood top; they'll help prevent the tabletop from bowing. Remove the wood shavings and debris before you turn the table over.

Friday, November 29, 2013

How to Find Free Woodworking Plans for Picnic Tables

How to Find Free Woodworking Plans for Picnic Tables

With summer on the way, your thoughts turn to sunshine, gardens and, of course, barbecues. Why not spend the next few rainy weekends getting ready by building the perfect picnic table. You can find free plans on the Internet that include instructions and materials lists. To get started, check out these this variety of picnic table designs, from an eight-sided table with attached seating to a folding picnic table that can be easily disassembled for transporting.

Instructions

    1

    Have a large family? Lots of friends? Then the large, traditional picnic table at HandymanWire (see Resources, below, for a link) is just what you want. It is 28 feet wide and 8 feet long, has attached benches and is strong and stable.

    2

    Check out the plans at Woodworking Super Center (see Resources) for a nice outdoor table made from cedar, an oily wood that naturally resists the elements. The website features step-by-step instructions and lots of pictures to help you get the job done.

    3

    Go to the California Redwood Association's website (see Resources) and download the free plans for its Sonoma Picnic Table. This table is about 60 inches long and 28 inches wide. You'll also find plans for matching benches. It's a pretty easy project, but you'll need to be comfortable making angle cuts in lumber.

    4

    Build a small, children-sized folding picnic table from a single, 4-by-8-foot sheet of plywood using the plans at the Disney FamilyFun website (see Resources). Toss it in the back of the car when you go to the beach or a picnic in the woods.

    5

    Find plans for a rather unusual and really beautiful octagonal table at BuildEazy (see Resources). It's 100 inches wide and very strong, due in no small part to the three galvanized metal plates on its underside.

How to Build a Picnic Table

Wouldn't a picnic table make your backyard, patio or deck a more useful and fun space? Here's how to build one that is relatively inexpensive and long lasting. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Choose a 2x4 dimensional lumber or material to fit your style and budget. Options include redwood (traditional but costly); CCA treated lumber (made with common spruce, pine or fir and treated with cyanide salt to be insect and rot resistant); and a new product called Trex, a combination of recycled plastic products and cedar chips (expensive and heavy but maintenance free and long lasting).

    2

    Choose 14 pieces that are straight and true in 10-foot lengths.

    3

    Code your pieces with penciled on letters labels as they are cut to make them easy to identify.

    4

    Cut and mark them as follows:

    5

    A ' 2 pieces, 31 inches long (Top supports)

    6

    B ' 2 pieces, 64 inches long (Connectors)

    7

    C - 4 pieces, 30 inches long (Table Legs)

    8

    D ' 8 pieces, 15 and inches (Bench legs)

    9

    E - 4 pieces, 12 inches long (Bench supports)

    10

    F ' 3 pieces, 33 inches long (Connectors)

    11

    G ' 2 pieces, 34 inches (Braces)

    12

    H ' 6 pieces, 60 inches long (Bench slats)

    13

    I ' 8 pieces, 72 inches long (Top slats)

    14

    Miter the ends of both 'A' pieces (Top supports) at 45 degree angles to give it matching under cuts on both ends.

    15

    Miter the ends of both 'G' pieces (Braces) at a 25 degree angle (These cuts will be made on the parallel instead of undercutting).

Assembling the Table

    16

    1.)Assemble as follows using 2 an inch long weatherized wood screws.

    17

    2.)Fasten one 'D' piece (Bench leg) square and flush to each end of piece 'E' piece (Bench Support) so that they form a 'U' shape.

    18

    3.)Repeat the above process four times. These structures form the bench supports.

    19

    4.)Fasten one 'C' piece (Table leg) square and flush to each end of 'A' piece so that they again form a 'U' shape, only this time the 'C' piece should be held in from the end of the angled 'A' piece so that it attaches at the short point of the miter cuts.

    20

    5.)Repeat above step again. These structures form the table top supports.

    21

    6.)Attach one of the Table top support brackets to one of the 'B' pieces (Connector) so that the outside edge of each leg is 20 inches from the end of the connector.

    22

    7.)Secure one bench support bracket at each end of the 'C' piece so that they are flush and square. You now have the two ends of the table constructed.

    23

    8.)Stand the 'ends' up about 3 feet apart. (Help from an assistant at this point would be nice for a few minutes)

    24

    9.)Attach 'F' pieces (Connector) between the uprights of each of the bench support brackets. The third connector goes from the center of one 'A' piece to the center of the other.

    25

    10.)Make sure that the assembly is square and true before attaching the 'G' pieces from the center of each 'B' piece up to the center of the 'F' piece. The angled cuts made earlier should work as a guide for proper fit.

    26

    11.)Place three 'H' pieces (Bench slats) on each of the bench bracket assemblies. Space them evenly and extend equal distance at each end, use screws to attach.

    27

    12.)Lay all of the 'I' pieces out on the table top brackets. Space them evenly across the supports and extend equal distance at each end, attach with screws.

    28

    13.)Finish table to suit your taste if necessary.

How to Build a Rustic Dining Room Table

Rustic tables can invoke feelings of a colonial kitchen or that of being in an old world farm house. The ease of making a dining room table with a simple and classic design only adds to the appeal of the table. With very little woodworking skills, practically anyone can put this table together and finish the project over a weekend. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Arrange your four support frame boards into a square. Nail the boards together. If desired, use wood glue along the joint to add extra security.

    2

    Place a table leg inside on corner of the square frame. Nail the leg to the frame with three nails on each of the two sides of the leg. Keep the top edge of the leg level with the top of the frame. Working with the table upside-down will keep things in place without much shifting.

    3

    Attach the other three legs to the frame and allow any wood glue time to dry before flipping the frame over. If you prefer to have the table legs turned, be sure to leave the first 6 inches square and round the rest of the length.

    4

    Turn the table frame and legs right side up. Check for how level the table is at this point. Sand down any legs that are making the table wobbly.

    5

    Lay your four boards across the top of the table and space evenly about -inch apart. Nail two nails in each board across the width of the table into the frame boards below.

    6

    Sand the table top and edges smooth. Apply any stain or sealant as desired.

Summer Picnic Games for Kids

Summer Picnic Games for Kids

Enjoying a picnic is a marvelous way to spend a warm Summer afternoon. While preparing hamburgers and pasta salad for dinner, make game suggestions to your kids. Summer picnic games can bring family and friends togetherwhile keeping kids active before and after the meal.

Water Balloon Toss

    Pick up a few packs of balloons and fill them with water. Place the balloons in a cooler so if they pop, it won't make a mess. While you set up the picnic, allow your children to begin a water balloon toss. To play, two kids must stand close and pass a water balloon to each other. With each successful toss, they take a step back. The winner is the last person to catch the balloon. This is exciting if you have more than one team. Not only will it cool your kids off on a hot day, it'll keep them occupied while you grill or prepare picnic food. Don't forget to bring some towels to dry off the balloon-tossers.

Family Sports

    Nothing is easier than packing sports equipment from home and making use of it at your picnic. Baseball, football, kickball, badminton or even fishing will keep you and your kids active. Each game can be tailored to how many people are participating.

On Target

    To play On Target, you'll need at least four cups of sanddirt is fine if you don't have sandfour plastic bags, Duct Tape, rope and scissors. Using scissors and twisty ties make the plastic bags into darts. You should make four plastic bag dartstwo for each player. To make the darts, fill the bag with 1/2 cup of sand, then tie off the bag and seal it with a twisty tie. Shake the bag so that the sand falls into a pointy corner. Cut off some of the end of the bag, but leave enough plastic so you can cut some frills onto the top of the dart.

    Make two separate medium-sized circles out of the rope and place them approximately 35 feet apart, or closer for smaller children. These are the targets. The goal of the game is to get your dart to land in the circle. You get three points if it lands in the circle, and one point if you land no more than 1-foot away from the circle. The person or team with the most points wins.

Thursday, November 28, 2013

How to Build Rustic Tables From Oak

How to Build Rustic Tables From Oak

A rustic oak dining room table in either a rugged farmhouse style or with a clean, sleek finish will encourage your guests to linger over dinner. Trestle tables date back to the Middle Ages when they became popular because they could be easily dismantled and stored out of the way during battles at the castle. Today's trestle combines form with function, and making one by hand can aid in making today's home truly your own castle. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

Make the Tabletop

    1

    Carve a slab of oak to make it 36-inches by 72-inches. If you can't find a slab, glue together pieces of 3/4-inch oak, alternating the direction of the rings with each piece. Clamp the wood together, or use biscuit joints to join the pieces.

    2

    Finish the edges by either using a drawknife or a hand planer for a rugged look, or use the table saw for a sharp edged finish.

    3

    Sand the top carefully.

Make the Legs

    4

    Cut the newel posts to the desired height.

    5

    Attach a corbel on each side, angling an 8-inch lag screw into each. Make certain the corbels and the end of the newel are level. Use a corbel that is at least 10-1/2 inches long to make the table stable.

    6

    Cut the stretcher bar to length and attach it between the newel posts by screwing a lag screw through the post and into the stretcher bar. Plug the hole with a dowel rod, leaving the dowel exposed 1/2 inch.

    7

    Cut two 12-inch square leg plates out of 3/4-inch wood.

    8

    Attach the leg plates on top of the newel post using 3-inch deck screws.

Assemble the Table

    9

    Turn the table top over and draw a line around the perimeter, 3 inches from the edge.

    10

    Cut twelve 1-by-2-by-8 inch pieces. Attach them on their flat side to the underside of the table using 1-1/4-inch deck screws. Space these cleats along the inside edge between the spots where the legs will attach.

    11

    Miter the edges of the 1-by-4-inch pieces, which will form the apron around the perimeter of the underside of the table. Set these pieces in place outside the cleats and secure in place with screws.

    12

    Set two 2-by-4-inch stringers on edge between the apron pieces where the legs will be installed. The ends of these stringers should butt up on the long sides of the apron. Secure in place with 3-inch screws.

    13

    Center the legs and affix with 1-1/4 inch deck screws.

    14

    Turn the table upright. Fill any holes with wood putty. Sand the table completely. Stain and seal.

Wednesday, November 27, 2013

DIY Farmhouse Table

DIY Farmhouse Table

Farmhouse tables are a basic part of American furniture. Farmers rarely had the money to buy expensive furniture; a farmhouse table was built very simply, using the common tools and materials they had handy. Almost anybody can build a sturdy farmhouse table.

You can build a similar table using standard pine lumber from your local home center. Simple butt joints, assembled using box nails, are all that is needed. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Lay two of the 4x4s (legs) on the ground, about five feet apart and parallel to each other. Lay one of the 1x4s on top of them, overlapping the edges so they form a U-shape of two legs joined by a long side rail to support the top. Spread some glue between the joints where they overlap, and drive three box nails through each end of the rail into the legs (six nails total). Do not position the three nails in a straight line. Stagger them, so you are less likely to split the wood. Wipe off any excess glue with the damp cloth.

    2

    Repeat step 1 with the other 1x4 and the other two 4x4s, and let the glue dry. You now have two leg assemblies, one for each side of the table.

    3

    Set one of the leg assemblies on the floor so the bottoms of the legs point straight up in the air. Attach one of the longer 2x4s to the end of this leg assembly. The cut edge of the 2x4 should align with the outside edge of the 1x4 side rail, so the leg appears to be inside the frame formed by the 1x4 and the 2x4. Apply some glue to the area where the 2x4 and the leg assembly overlap, then drive three nails through the 2x4 into the leg assembly; stagger them as you did before. Use the damp cloth to wipe off any excess glue. This is one of the short end rails of the table.

    4

    Attach the other long 2x4 to the other end of the leg assembly, following the instructions in Step 3. This 2x4 is the short end rail for the other end of the table.

    5

    Put some glue on one cut end of the short 2x4 and position it halfway between the two short end rails, then drive three nails through the 1x4 into the end of this 2x4. Wipe off any excess glue. This is a center support for the top of the farmtable.

    6

    Attach the remaining leg assembly to the three 2x4s, using glue and nails as in the previous three steps. When finished, you will have completed the farmtable base. Once the glue has dried, turn the table base over so it sits on the legs.

    7

    Use the measuring tape to mark the center point on each of the short end rails with the pencil. Position two of the 1x8s on top of the frame, with their joint placed over the pencil marks. Drive three box nails through each one into both of the end rails and the center support; you will need nine nails per board. Do not use glue. Add boards, nailing them to the frame until the top is completed.

    8

    Stain the table with the finish of your choice, following the manufacturer's instructions.

Monday, November 25, 2013

How to Make an Easy Picnic Table

The all-American picnic has been a celebration event for everything from large family gatherings to just a simple quiet time together for a couple. Picnic tables allow the enjoyment of the outdoors and home-cooked food to come together in one central area. Picnic tables are the dining room tables of the backyard and building one for yourself is just as enjoyable as the picnic itself. Making an easy picnic table only requires a few basic tools, and with a few simple instructions anyone can make his own and enjoy it for years. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Cut three crossboards for mounting the tabletop out of one 2-by-4, making each section 26 inches long, then nail eight 2-by-4s to the crossboards. Place one crossboard in the middle at the 4-foot mark in dead center and place the other two 4 inches from the ends, ensuring 1 inch of overhang on both long sides of the table.

    2

    Cut four legs for the table using two 2-by-6s by cutting at a 60-degree angle. Use a square to ensure that the cut is 60 degrees on top and bottom, marking the length at 33.5 inches on both sides. Cut the remaining 2-by-6s each to 5 feet in length.

    3

    Flip the tabletop upside down and mount the legs to the inside of the outermost crossboards, leaving a 3.5-inch gap from the outside of the tabletop. Then drill eight 3/8-inch holes to mount each leg (two bolts per leg). After you drill the eight holes, countersink the nuts and washers by drilling a 3/4-inch hole with the spade bit on top of the 3/8-inch holes on both sides. Insert the bolts and fasten them with nuts and washers on the inside of the legs.

    4

    Attach the two 5-foot 2-by-6s as a mount for the seats (that you cut previously) to the legs on both sides, making them horizontal to the floor and placing them so that the seat will be 18 inches from the floor. Use another two bolts per leg when attaching the seat mounts and countersink the nuts and washers on the inside of the each leg.

    5

    Cut two diagonal braces from a 2-by-4 at a 17-degree angle using the square. Make both pieces 44 inches long. Note that you may have to adjust this measurement slightly by sanding or cutting to ensure that the diagonal supports are cut to a precise fit. Attach the braces to the center crossboard in the center and nail them offset slightly from one another and run them down to nail them into the seat mounts.

    6

    Nail the remaining two 2-by-4s in between the seat mounts flush with the top, making a brace and support for the seats. Then attach the 2-by-10s to form the seat by nailing them into place on the seat mounts and brace. Make sure the legs are square and even before nailing the seats in place.

    7

    Sand down the rough corners and tabletop using a palm sander, then finish with an outdoor sealant or varnish as desired. Allow the coat to dry, then reapply for better protection from weathering.

Sunday, November 24, 2013

How to Make a Stained Glass Tabletop

How to Make a Stained Glass Tabletop

Making a stained glass tabletop is easier than creating traditional stained glass, in which lead is placed between the cut glass and then soldered into place. Because lead is not safe around children, pets or food, grout can be used to make stained glass tables. This also remedies the problem of sagging that would occur with a soldered stained glass design. Stained glass tabletops transform simple tables into exceptional accent pieces for a home.

Instructions

    1

    Measure and cut the heavy paper to the same dimensions as the table's top.

    2

    Draw the design pattern onto the heavy paper. For design ideas, use mosaic and stained glass patterns for inspiration (see Resource).

    3

    Measure and cut the stained glass to fit onto the drawn design. Be sure to wear safety glasses. Lay the pieces on top of the design as you cut the glass and space the pieces approximately 1/4 inch apart.

    4

    Apply a thin layer of tile adhesive to a small section of the table's surface and begin placing the glass in the same pattern as on the paper. Use the design pattern as a reference.

    5

    Continue applying more tile adhesive as needed until the entire stained glass pattern as been placed on the table surface. Allow the adhesive dry before proceeding to the next step.

    6

    Use a trowel to apply the grout over the entire table surface. Be sure to fill in all the areas between the stained glass pieces.

    7

    Wait about 30 minutes until the grout's appearance becomes cloudy. Dampen the sponge with water and wipe away the excess grout. Allow the grout to dry completely, about 1 to 2 days.

    8

    Apply a coat of grout sealant and let it dry. Apply a second coat. This sealant protects the grout from staining.

Saturday, November 23, 2013

How to Remove a Glass Stain From a Varnished Table

Coasters protect varnished wooden tables from glass stains. Glass stains occur when condensation from the glass runs down the glass and gets soaked up by the wood. This makes the varnish bubble up. You can repair some glass stains easily, but if the process doesn't work, you will probably have to refinish the entire table. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

Ashes and Mayonnaise

    1

    Add cigarette ashes to 2 tbsp. mayonnaise to make a thick paste.

    2

    Rub the paste into the glass stain until the mark is gone.

    3

    Wipe the area with a clean cloth to remove the mayonnaise. Buff the area with another dry cloth.

Toothpaste and Baking Soda

    4

    Mix 1 tbsp. white toothpaste with 1 tbsp. baking soda.

    5

    Rub the paste into the glass mark on the varnished table. Work until the mark is gone or it is as light as possible.

    6

    Wipe off the paste with a clean cloth.

    7

    Repeat as needed to remove the stain completely.

Thursday, November 21, 2013

How to Make Outdoor Table Sets

Wooden picnic tables are perfect for the backyard for entertaining as well as being functional in many other ways. This is the basic instructions for making a picnic table with the attached benches, which will provides hours of use. There is pressure treated wood on this table, but it is only for the legs, as that is where it is needed. This can be completed in an afternoon with a day or so of drying for the stain. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Purchase the lumber you need along with the bolts, washers, and screws at your local lumber store or home improvement store. Lay out your wood when you return home, so you can easy see which piece is which.

    2

    Pick up the three pieces, which is the support pieces, and give them a bit of an angel so they are not so harsh they will hurt a leg when you sit at the table. Make sure to mark all angels first with a measuring tape and pencil before cutting. Set the support pieces aside and pick up the support pieces. Each side of these support pieces should get a 65-degree angel. Just make the angels on different ends of each section of wood and set aside when they are done. Seat supports should also be angled somewhat but just be sure it is a slight angel so it lays flat against the wood of the benches. The legs have a 55-degree angle, and this last step completes the need for the saw.

    3

    Sand all pieces of wood so that all surfaces are smooth, and sliver free. Pay particular attention to the edges where you have just cut the wood.

    4

    Lay the nine pieces of wood, which are six foot long for the tabletop down on the ground side by side so they are touching one another. Have a person stand on either side of the wood and hold it in place with their feet. Lay the three pieces of wood, which are 32 and a half inches long for the tabletop support on the nine pieces of wood. Nail the supports into the table boards putting one at the left and then to the right side as you progress across the length of the board so that you do not splinter this support.

    5

    Measure 14 and half inches from the tabletop upwards, with the tape measure and mark it on each leg. Pick up the seat support pieces and bolt them to the legs, on the points you marked. Pick up the two-leg support pieces, which are 30 inches long and nail one of them in the middle of the seat supports to up under the middle of the table support beam. Add the other piece like this but on the opposite seat support and opposite side of the middle of the table support beam.

    6

    Remove the pieces of scrap wood from the table legs, and turn the table upright, as it will stand. Take three of the six foot long pieces which are left and lay them on the seat supports, laying the first one on the support so that it over hangs a bit. Lay the other two piece of wood on there, and bolt in place. Then attach the wood on the other side and your table is almost complete.

    7

    Stain the table or leave it natural and water proof it so that it will stand the test of time.

Sunday, November 17, 2013

Ideas for Outdoor Accent Tables

Ideas for Outdoor Accent Tables

Outdoor accent tables add flair and functionality to your outdoor living space. Before purchasing one, consider what you plan to use it for, if it will be in a covered outdoor space or exposed to the elements, and what style will work with your other furniture. And since these tables tend to be small and placed off to the side, choosing something that contrasts with the rest of your seating area can create a wonderful focal point. Does this Spark an idea?

Wood Tables

    Wood tables are versatile and can be designed to coordinate with any furniture. You can choose wood that is resistant to the elements, such as cedar or teak, or try a stain or varnish for added protection. Choose a stain if you like the look of wood grain showing through for traditional or country decor, or choose an opaque stain or glossy paint for a more modern look.

Cast Aluminum Tables

    Cast aluminum tables are lightweight, weather-resistant and come in a virtually unlimited range of designs. These are a perfect choice for a patio that isn't covered, or for an area where you need some versatility, since the table can be easily moved around.

Wrought Iron Tables

    Wrought iron offers and heavier, more traditional look for an accent table. This can be a good choice for a traditional seating area, or can offer an old-fashioned, charming contrast to a modern furniture set. Wrought iron is also weather-resistant, so it is suitable for covered or open areas.

Resin Wicker Tables

    Wicker adds a beautiful tropical look to any patio or deck, but will not generally last long outside. Choose wicker only if you have a covered area and if you are willing to store the table inside during bad weather and through the winter.

Other Accent Tables

    If you are looking for something out of the ordinary, try using another object as an accent table. A large flat rock in the corner of a patio would work beautifully, as would the stump of a tree on a traditional deck. Choose a colorful mosaic-topped table to brighten up a corner outside, or for a special occasion, bring an indoor table outside and cover it with a small tablecloth.

Saturday, November 16, 2013

How to Make a Barn Wood Kitchen Table

How to Make a Barn Wood Kitchen Table

Barn wood can be an attractive material for building furniture. It sets a rustic, western tone in recreation rooms or lodge-type settings. The wood is light gray in color and should stay natural, but you can add penetrating oil to help seal it and make the surface more user-friendly. You can construct a small table for a rustic kitchen setting with some random barn-wood planks and a few 2-by-4 studs.

Instructions

    1

    Place barn wood planks on a flat surface. The accumulated width of the planks must equal at least 36 inches. Flush the ends. Place two evenly spaced clamps perpendicular to the planks and tighten just enough to hold them together.

    2

    Measure the width of the planks and cut two studs at that length on a miter saw. Run a heavy bead of glue along the back of the cut pieces. Place one stud at each end, perpendicular to the planks, 12 inches from each end. The glued side of each stud must contact the planks. Make sure the glued sides contact the barn wood planks to bond them to the studs.

    3

    Screw two, 2-inch screws evenly spaced into each plank, down through the studs using a cordless gun. You don't need to pre-drill, and the glue doesn't need to dry before removing the clamps. The clamps are only to secure the planks and keep them snug and uniform against the bracing stud.

    4

    Place two of the studs on a flat surface, parallel to each other and 30 inches apart. Place one stud at each end, perpendicular to the other two studs. Flush them at the corners with the studs on the bottom to form a square. Put two 3-inch screws through each of the studs at the four corners. Repeat to form two squares, which will be the feet of the table.

    5

    Run a bead of glue along the sides of the studs underneath the table. Stand up the square legs flush against the sides of the bracing studs on the bottom of the table. Place two hand clamps on the legs where they meet the braces. Tighten to secure the square feet to the bottom of the table.

    6

    Drill holes 3 inches apart through the studs on the feet into the bracing studs. Insert 3 1/2-inch screws into the holes and tighten with the cordless gun. Remove the clamps. Allow a minimum of one hour for the glue to dry. Stand the table upright.

How to Serve in Ping Pong

How to Serve in Ping Pong

Ping pong (or table tennis) has been popular since its creation in the 1880s. The game was first played by upper-class Victorians as after dinner amusement. The game has come a long way since then; it was originally played with books as a net, cork as a ball and cigar boxes as paddles. Learning how to serve is the first step you must take in learning the game of ping pong. With just a few simple steps, you can become a real ping pong wizard.

Instructions

    1

    Stand on one side of the ping pong table. You can have an opponent at this point if you choose. It would be ideal, however, to learn how to serve the ball on your own before challenging someone and looking like a novice.

    2

    Hold the ping pong paddle in one hand. It should be held in your right hand if you're right handed and vice-versa for lefties. Hold the ping pong ball in the opposite hand.

    3

    Place your left foot forward, facing the table, if you are right handed. If you are left handed, place your right foot towards the table.

    4

    Toss the ping pong ball into the air at about chest level. If your stance is correct, your front should not be facing directly towards your opponent (or the other side of the table). The ball should should fall downwards in front of you if you tossed it straight up.

    5

    Strike the ball as it comes down in front of you. You should strike slightly below the ball to ensure you account for the ball's acceleration downwards. As you hit the ball, you should hit it in a forward/upward motion.

    6

    Practice until you've mastered hitting the ball. Once you can hit the ball in this fashion, practice your aim. When serving like this, you should try to hit the side of the table as close to your side as possible. Ensure the ball hits your side as far from the net as you can manage.

Different Dining Room Chairs

Different Dining Room Chairs

Dining room chairs are used as seating at a dining table. They are available with arms, called armchairs, and without arms, called side chairs. They are available fully upholstered, partially upholstered, and without upholstery. Common styles of dining room chairs include parsons, bergre, ladder-back, Chippendale, and Windsor. Does this Spark an idea?

Styles

    Dining room chairs come in many different styles. A parsons dining room chair has a straight, smooth back and seat. A bergre chair is a French-style arm or side chair that has a wood outer frame with an upholstered seat and an upholstered or cane back. Chippendale chairs have an upholstered seat and a carved wooden back featuring a curvy design. Ladder-back chairs have an upholstered seat and a wood back that has horizontal wooden slats. Windsor chairs are made of wood and have a curved back with round horizontal dowels extending from the seat to a solid, curved wood piece at the top of the chair.

Upholstered Dining Room Chairs

    A fully upholstered dining arm chair in the parsons style.

    Dining room arm and side chairs are available in both fully upholstered and partially upholstered styles. A fully upholstered chair has a seat and back that are padded and covered with fabric or leather, whereas a partially upholstered chair has fabric on only the seat or only the back. When choosing upholstery for a dining room chair, select a fabric that is durable and stain-resistant to endure numerous food and drink spills over the years.

Non-Upholstered Dining Room Chairs

    Non-upholstered dining room chairs may be made of wood, metal, plastic, or cane. Common woods include cherry, mahogany, walnut and alder. Non-upholstered dining room chairs may have an upholstered seat and/or a back cushion that is detachable. Non-upholstered dining room chairs are considered more durable than upholstered dining room chairs because wood, metal, and plastic do not absorb food or liquids easily. Also, detachable cushions can be sent out easily for cleaning. However, many people find them less comfortable than fully upholstered chairs.

Arm and Side Chairs

    A side chair with a wood back and upholstered seat.

    A rectangular dining table traditionally uses two armchairs at the head and foot of the table and side chairs on the long sides. For a round or square dining table without a defined head and foot, all the chairs should be either armchairs or side chairs. Side chairs take up less room than arm chairs, so these may work better if your table is small or if you wish to fit more chairs around it.

Warning

    Make sure the seat and arm height of your dining chairs work with your dining room table. The seat height of your chair should be 10 to 12 inches less than the height of your dining room table. If you have selected armchairs, make sure they slide completely underneath your dining room table. Sometimes the apron, or edge of the table, will drop several inches below the top of the table and block the arms of a chair from sliding underneath. If you are unable to try out your dining room chairs with your dining room table, make sure you obtain detailed measurements from the manufacturer, including chair seat height, chair arm height, tabletop height, and table apron height.

Wednesday, November 13, 2013

How to Make a Coffee Table From a Door

How to Make a Coffee Table From a Door

With a little elbow grease and imagination, a door be turned into coffee table. A solid core door is best, as it will be sturdier and you won't have fill in or hide the hollow end after you cut it. Look at the door type and pictures of coffee table styles for inspiration, then make your own one-of-a-kind piece of furniture. If you have a jigsaw, consider cutting the door into a shape other than just a rectangle. You may also find a hardware shop or wood shop that will do custom cuts for you.

Instructions

    1
    Try to preserve any architectural interest.
    Try to preserve any architectural interest.

    Cut the door to the size you want. Plan your cuts on paper first, so you can cut it in a way that preserves any architectural interest, such as arches, raised panels or interesting markings. The size of your coffee table is up to you, as there is no standard size, but most doors are too large for the average room.

    2

    Sand the entire door, front and back, to remove rough places, old paint and splinters. Choose the sandpaper based on the look you want and the condition of the door. If there is a lot of dirt and old paint, you will want to use a coarse sandpaper first, and then finish with a finer grit. Also, if you want a distressed look, you will sand it less than if you want a highly polished look. Wipe it down with a damp cloth to clean off the dust.

    3

    Mark the places at each corner where you want to put the legs and drill a hole in each place for the table legs. Use a drill bit that is just slightly smaller than the screws that are already built into the table legs.

    4
    Screw-in table legs come in many styles.
    Screw-in table legs come in many styles.

    Screw the coffee table legs into the holes you drilled at each corner.

    5

    Paint or stain the coffee table using any paint or stain made for wood. There are low-fume and non-toxic paints that might be more suitable if you have toddlers or young pets. There are kits available to help you create a distressed look, faded look or another effect. Apply at least one coat of polyurethane over the fully dry paint or stain so the finish will resist stains, spills and water rings.

How to Decorate Corners

How to Decorate Corners

Corners are nooks waiting to be filled with favorite things. Create a reading nook with a small, comfy chair and a table just big enough for books and a cup of coffee. Choose a corner display hutch and show off that collection of crystal, figurines or miniatures. Angle a book shelf and fill it with books and games for the kids. The point is corners are opportunities to showcase something so there is no need to leave them empty. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

Candles

    1

    Place three candle holders of various heights in the corner.

    2

    Arrange the candle holders so they form a triangle with the tallest candle in the back.

    3

    Top the candle holders with pillar candles. This works well for corners by furniture. Fill a taller space by purchasing 6 candle holders with flat tops and bottoms. Stack them on top of each other for extra height.

Artwork

    4

    Set a picture easel in the corner. Choose the easel according to the artwork.

    5

    Center the artwork on the easel.

    6

    Check the distance between the frame of the artwork and the walls. Make sure there are several inches between them to promote air flow around the art.

Plants

    7

    Purchase a large plant or silk tree to place in the corner.

    8
    Plants fill the corner nicely.
    Plants fill the corner nicely.

    String clear twinkle lights through the tree and plug the lights in.

    9

    Cover the base of the planter with rocks to hide the soil from view.

    10

    Cluster several plants together on plant stands in the corner. Arrange the tallest one in the back and smaller ones to the front.

Side table

    11

    Arrange a small side table so it's angled in the corner.

    12

    Place a table runner or a place mat on the table.

    13

    Put a lamp in the center of the table and scatter small framed family photographs around the lamp.

How to Decorate an End Table

How to Decorate an End Table

End tables are an important part of the furniture plan for a room. Ideally, you should have an end table within reach of every chair and on each end of a sofa. If two chairs are close together in a grouping, one table between the two works well. End tables essential for lamp placement and are convenient places to put eyeglasses, cups and books. Decorating end tables is easy if you keep in mind that simple and uncluttered are the keys. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1
    Bedrooms need end tables too.
    Bedrooms need end tables too.

    Place end tables on both sides of a sofa or love seat and next to large chairs. Groupings of chairs can share an end table, as long as it's within easy reach.

    2
    Table lamps provide light for reading.
    Table lamps provide light for reading.

    Place lamps on end tables, as needed. Someone sitting in a chair or on a sofa should have the illumination needed for comfortable reading. Consider matching table lamps for each end of a sofa, although you may want to stay away from a look that's overly matchy-matchy.

    3

    Place a small stack of your favorite books, no more than two or three, near some of the lamps for easy access. A small decorative tray can also be placed near the front of a table to hold glasses, remote controls or other small items. Use the table space to highlight other accent pieces. Small framed photos or a favorite decorative vase can also be used. Keep it simple, with only one or two accent pieces on each table.

    4
    Wicker baskets can add color, texture and storage to your room.
    Wicker baskets can add color, texture and storage to your room.

    Place a wicker basket on the floor under the table or on a lower shelf, depending on your table design. One of the most needed items in any room is storage, and that's what a basket provides. In one basket, you could place a selection of the current magazines. In another you could put an extra throw for the sofa or a pillow. A third could hold your children's favorite games or movies. The baskets will keep what might become clutter under control.

Tuesday, November 12, 2013

How to Build Rustic Tables From Oak

How to Build Rustic Tables From Oak

A rustic oak dining room table in either a rugged farmhouse style or with a clean, sleek finish will encourage your guests to linger over dinner. Trestle tables date back to the Middle Ages when they became popular because they could be easily dismantled and stored out of the way during battles at the castle. Today's trestle combines form with function, and making one by hand can aid in making today's home truly your own castle. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

Make the Tabletop

    1

    Carve a slab of oak to make it 36-inches by 72-inches. If you can't find a slab, glue together pieces of 3/4-inch oak, alternating the direction of the rings with each piece. Clamp the wood together, or use biscuit joints to join the pieces.

    2

    Finish the edges by either using a drawknife or a hand planer for a rugged look, or use the table saw for a sharp edged finish.

    3

    Sand the top carefully.

Make the Legs

    4

    Cut the newel posts to the desired height.

    5

    Attach a corbel on each side, angling an 8-inch lag screw into each. Make certain the corbels and the end of the newel are level. Use a corbel that is at least 10-1/2 inches long to make the table stable.

    6

    Cut the stretcher bar to length and attach it between the newel posts by screwing a lag screw through the post and into the stretcher bar. Plug the hole with a dowel rod, leaving the dowel exposed 1/2 inch.

    7

    Cut two 12-inch square leg plates out of 3/4-inch wood.

    8

    Attach the leg plates on top of the newel post using 3-inch deck screws.

Assemble the Table

    9

    Turn the table top over and draw a line around the perimeter, 3 inches from the edge.

    10

    Cut twelve 1-by-2-by-8 inch pieces. Attach them on their flat side to the underside of the table using 1-1/4-inch deck screws. Space these cleats along the inside edge between the spots where the legs will attach.

    11

    Miter the edges of the 1-by-4-inch pieces, which will form the apron around the perimeter of the underside of the table. Set these pieces in place outside the cleats and secure in place with screws.

    12

    Set two 2-by-4-inch stringers on edge between the apron pieces where the legs will be installed. The ends of these stringers should butt up on the long sides of the apron. Secure in place with 3-inch screws.

    13

    Center the legs and affix with 1-1/4 inch deck screws.

    14

    Turn the table upright. Fill any holes with wood putty. Sand the table completely. Stain and seal.

Ways to Cover Glass Top Tables

Ways to Cover Glass Top Tables

Glass table tops look beautiful in a variety of different arrangements. They can be used on kitchen or dining room tables, coffee tables, or side tables. Unless you live alone, have no pets, and never set anything on your table, glass table tops can get scratched, dirty, or damaged very easily. Cover glass table tops whenever there's a potential for damage or when you want to make your glass table tops look more welcoming or beautiful. Does this Spark an idea?

Cloths

    If you decide to cover the entire table, cut a section of fabric that is at least 4 inches longer and wider than your table. Use estimates for a rounded table top. Set your table cloth on top of the rounded table. For the best protection during a party or in a home with young children, use a double layer of cloth. Although you won't be able to see the glass table top, at least it is going to be protected.

    Let people know you have glass table top by partially covering the table with cloth. Take a measurement of your entire table, and then cut a small square of fabric that is about 1/4 the size of your entire space. Set it along the middle as a table runner and encourage people to put their drinks on the fabric cover.

Doilies

    You can also use doilies to cover glass table top. Doilies don't provide any protection to the glass table top; instead they create an interesting look in a room. The way that the lace looks on top of a glass table top can be quite stylish and can make the decor of the room seem more formal. To use doilies to cover your glass table top, first measure the table. Purchase a doily that is the size of the entire tabletop, or you can measure to fit a small section, like the center.

Styles of Antique End Tables

Styles of Antique End Tables

For centuries, furniture has been created for beauty as well as function. Antique end tables are styled like their other furniture counterparts, according to the period in which they were designed. True antiques are costly, however, reproductions of these lovely pieces can be just as delightful and much more affordable. Does this Spark an idea?

Early Georgian Period: 1700-1745

    As Americans became more prosperous, their furniture styles reflected English origins in the eighteenth century. The designs were more refined and more formal. The Georgian period was so named for King George I, II and III. Queen Anne, who reigned before them, introduced a new, elegant style in American furnishings with the gentle and graceful curve of the cabriole leg. Graceful, dainty tea tables with scallop and shell motifs hail from this period.

Late Georgian Period: 1745-1790

    Chippendale furniture, produced in England in the 18th century, came from the designs of a furniture maker named Thomas Chippendale. His furniture style was characterized as sturdy and elegant and more masculine than Queen Anne. His designs incorporated straight and curved lines that were widely copied. Chippendale style borrowed Queen Anne, Gothic, French and Chinese elements. The pie crust tilt-top table with a center pedestal and curved legs was a favorite during this period.

Neoclassic Period: 1790-1845

    The Neoclassic period has three overlapping sub-periods, Early Federal (1790-1804), Late Federal, Empire and Regency (1804-1825), and the Greek Revival or Late Empire (1825-1845). Hepplewhite, Sheraton and the Adam brothers were the premier furniture designers of this period. In typical Hepplewhite style, the Pembroke table became a tremendously popular design with its oval-drop leaves and straight, tapered legs. A round top, pedestal table with three curved legs and spade feet is also a significant design of this era. Sheraton tables are of similar style with straight, tapered or reeded legs, as are pedestal tables with splayed legs that end in a thimble foot.

Greek Revival Period: 1825-1845

    Greek Revival period, also known as Late American Empire, featured furniture maker Duncan Phyfe's designs. It was bold and chunky compared to the previous period. Pillar tables with a large singular pedestal (pillar) and rectangular or round tops were used as end tables and center tables. Sometimes the supports featured large animal paw feet or other heavy carving of acanthus leaves or diamond-patterned pineapple motifs.

Monday, November 11, 2013

How to Make a Simple End Table

An end table is a useful and decorative piece of furniture. It can range from being simple to elaborate, but it still serves the same purpose. Purchasing an end table can be expensive. Save money by building your own simple end table out of inexpensive materials. An end table with clean lines will match almost any dcor. Choose a paint color that coordinates with the room for a customized look.

Instructions

    1

    Cut two pieces measuring 2-by-3-feet from a 4-by-8 sheet of 3/4-inch plywood with a handsaw. Cut a 45-degree mitered angle on both ends of the pieces, facing opposite directions. These are the table supports.

    2

    Cut two sections measuring 24-by-26-inches from a 4-by-8 sheet of 3/4-inch plywood. These boards will be the top and bottom of the table.

    3

    Measure 1 1/2 feet from the end of a table support with a tape measure and mark with a pencil. Place the tape measure on the mark and measure 1 foot from the side of the board. Mark with a pencil. This is the center of the board. Cut a 1-foot-long slit, 3/4 inch wide, across the center of the board with a jigsaw. Repeat on the remaining table support.

    4

    Sand the boards with 150-grit sandpaper.

    5

    Slide the table supports together at the slits to form an "X." Place the bottom of the table over the ends of the supports and attach with wood glue. Turn the table over and place the top of the table over the ends of the table supports and attach with wood glue. Allow the glue to dry.

    6

    Apply primer with a paintbrush and allow it to dry. Paint the table the desired color with spray paint. Apply two coats of polyurethane and allow it to dry completely before using the table.

How to Sew a Double Sided Table Runner

How to Sew a Double Sided Table Runner

Fabric is the quickest way to change the look of a room next to a coat of paint. With the effort that goes into sewing items for the home, getting double the look for the same amount of time is always a bonus and is exactly what the following project provides. Whether you choose fabrics that correspond with seasonal changes, holidays--or just a casual side and a formal side--a reversible table runner will give you two options in the space of one versatile piece of home dcor. Here is how to create one.

Instructions

    1

    Layer both of your fabrics (right sides together), the quilt batting and a sheet of interfacing together, spread out on a large work surface like your dining room table, a work table or the floor. Pin them together to make it easier to cut through all the layers at once.

    2

    Measure out and cut an area 13 to 19 inches wide and as long as you want, adding an inch to the length for seam allowance. There's no single right size for a table runner, since tables come in all shapes and sizes. If you want your runner to hang over the edges of the table lengthwise, add at least a foot and a half to the length of your table. A shorter runner can be centered over any size table for a decorative accent or placed across, width-wise.

    3

    Draw a line from the center of the short sides to a point the same distance down from the corner on each long side of the runner to create a pointed end. This is optional, of course, as a square-ended runner looks just as nice. Cut away the corners along the lines you made, adjusting as necessary for personal preference.

    4

    Sew along all the sides, 1/2 inch from the edge, leaving a 6-inch section along one of the long sides open for turning. Trim away excess seam allowance to avoid bulk.

    5

    Turn the runner right-side-out through the open seam and press along all edges, turning in the open portion to make it easier to hand sew it closed.

    6

    Stitch the remaining opening closed and attach tassels, if desired, to the points or corners of your runner.

Saturday, November 9, 2013

Making a Wooden Stump Coffee Table

Making a Wooden Stump Coffee Table

Add rustic charm to any room in your house with a wooden stump coffee table. Avoid paying the high price of designer log furniture by creating your own personal table with a slab and a stump. A log stump coffee table is a stunning conversation piece that will have all of your friends talking. If you are comfortable with a handsaw, this project is a snap. Use this table indoors or outside on a deck or porch. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Cut the log slab measuring four feet in height. This is the table top.

    2

    Cut the two 12-inch diameter stumps to a length of two feet. These are the legs of the table.

    3

    Bring the stumps and the wood slab indoors or store in a cool, dry place for one month. This allows the wood to dry out.

    4

    Use a draw knife to remove the bark from the rough side of the log slab. Smooth out the flat part of the log slab with a belt sander. Sand the edges and corners of the slab with medium-grit sandpaper to prevent the wood from splintering.

    5

    Peel off any loose bark on the stumps. Use a chisel and hammer to chip away any of the hard-to-remove bark pieces. Sand the hairs on the stump left from the bark down with medium grit sandpaper. Sand the edges of the stumps with fine grit sandpaper.

    6

    Apply an even coat of wood stain to all three pieces using a paintbrush. Allow the stain to dry before moving on to the next step.

    7

    Flip the stumps upside down so they are sitting on their bottoms. Nail in four nail-in plastic feet to the bottom of each stump. Make sure the feet are evenly spaced. The plastic feet will prevent the table from scratching the floor.

    8

    Place the two stumps in desired location, two feet apart from each other. Set the table top on top of the logs with the flat side on top. Adjust the slab until it overhangs evenly on both sides.

Thursday, November 7, 2013

How to Remove Scratches From Glass Tabletops

How to Remove Scratches From Glass Tabletops

Removing small scratches from a glass tabletop can prove a simple task; but for more unsightly and serious scratches, you may have to call in an expert. Even a few scratches can mar a beautiful glass table, so take care of your glass to preserve its beauty by buffing away small scratches as they occur. Be careful when cleaning your glass; do not be too rough or use anything abrasive on the surface. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Clean the surface of the glass before you begin by using a lint free cloth to polish the tabletop.

    2

    Rub white toothpaste into the scratches on your table top. Use a gentle, circular motion to buff the scratches with the paste.

    3

    Wash the toothpaste off with a small amount of water and dry the table with the lint free cloth. Repeat the process until the scratches have been minimized.

Sunday, November 3, 2013

How to Secure a Glass Tabletop

How to Secure a Glass Tabletop

Glass tabletops can add an attractive design element to coffee and dining tables. If you have concerns about your tabletop shifting with use, you can secure the tabletop. For tabletops that will remain a permanent part of your table, a silicone adhesive may work well. If you want the top to be movable, clear bumper discs may offer security and mobility. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

Silicon Adhesive

    1

    Clean the underside of the glass tabletop and the area of the table where you want to apply the adhesive.

    2

    Load the adhesive into the caulk gun.

    3

    Squeeze a dime size amount of adhesive onto the table at each corner. You can run a bead around the whole table as well.

    4

    Lift the tabletop and carefully place it onto the table. If the table top is heavy, get another person to assist you. Allow the adhesive to dry overnight before moving or placing anything onto the tabletop.

Clear Disc

    5

    Purchase a pack of clear cabinet bumpers.

    6

    Clean the table in each area where you will place a bumper.

    7

    Remove the bumper from the backing and place it onto the table. Apply firm pressure to ensure the bumper is secure.

    8

    Lift the tabletop and carefully place it onto the table. If the table top is heavy, get another person to assist you.